Climbers - Clematis - Źródło Dobrych Pnączy

Climbers

Growing climbers

Apart from clematis, there exists a large group of climbing vines worth popularising. Climbers take up little space in the garden all the while giving a spectacular display owing to the mass of greenery they produce: Silvervine Fleeceflower (Fallopia), Dutchman’s Pipe (Aristolochia), Oriental Bittersweet (Celastrus), Trumpet Creeper (Campsis), Vitis, Parthenocissus, Monks Hood Vine (Ampelopsis), Actinidia, beautiful flowers: Wisteria, Trumpet Creeper (Campsis), Honeysuckle (Lonicera) and ornamental fruit: Oriental Bittersweet (Celastrus), Nightshade (Solanum), Ampelopsis, as well as edible fruit: Actinidia, Magnolia Vine (Schisandra) and Akebia. The majority of climbers climb by twining spirally round the support, while others, owing to the presence aerial rootlets e.g. Ivies (Hedera), Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris), Trumpet Vine (Campsis), Japanese Hydrangea Vine (Schizophragma hydrangeoides) and Wintercreeper Euonymus (Euonymus fortunei), or adhesive tendril tips, e.g. Japanese Creeper (Parthenocissus), are self-clinging and can scale a flat wall, without added support.

Climbers are particularly useful for covering outer walls of buildings. Apart from their decorative aspect, they also act as insulation during winter, and retain a pleasant coolness inside the house during hot summer days. They also help keep the walls dry by shielding them from the rain, and draining excess water away from the foundations. Creepers are best suited to this end, but you can equally well use ivies or Trumpet Vine, or any other climber on condition that a suitable support is provided.

Climbers can cover unsightly buildings, sheds, warehouses, rubbish sheds, etc. hiding them quickly from view. If you want to have the effect in just one year, you should try Silvervine Fleeceflower (Fallopia aubertii), Hop (Humulus), on clematis belonging to the Tangutica Group e.g. 'Bill MacKenzie' or ‘Lambton Park’ or alternatively, Clematis'Paul Farges' of the Vitalba Group. If you can wait 2-3 years, you can use any climbing vine described in this section.

Climbers can grow up various kinds of fences (np. siatki) (e.g. wire meshes). They will not only provide decoration, but will also screen us from nosy people's eyes and protect us against winter and dust. The following plants are excellent for this purpose: Common Ivy (Hedera helix), Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera acuminata), clematis of the Atragene Group (especially 'Pamela Jackman'), the Tangutica Group (especially 'Lambton Park'), the Viticella Group (especially 'Etoile Violette' and 'Polish Spirit') and the Vitalba Group (especially 'Paul Farges'), Monks Hood Vine (Ampelopsis aconitifolia), Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) and Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata).

The majority of climbers don’t require any special soil conditions, but since they produce a large mass of greenery, they don’t like very dry and poor soils. Heat-loving species, such as actinidias (Actinidia), wisterias (Wisteria) and trumpet creepers (Campsis), prefer warm, sheltered and sunny sites, while Common Ivy (Hedera), Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris), Dutchman’s Pipe (Aristolochia), Schizophragma (Schizophragma), Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei), Akebia (Akebia), Hop (Humulus) and some honeysuckles (Lonicera) will feel better in a cooler, shaded and moist site.

When planting climbers dig a hole of 50x50x50 cm and fill it with fertile soil. Depending on the species, put the plant 0-10 cm deeper than it used to grow in a pot, at least 30-50 cm away from the wall and 50-100 cm away from the trees. Well chosen and correctly planted climbers can grow for many years, decorating your garden all year round and providing excellent shelter for birds.

Wisteria

An exquisitely flowering climbing plant with white, pink, blue or purple flowers, depending on a variety, gathered in long slender racemes (up to 60 cm long). It comes into bloom in May-June.

Plants grown from seeds start flowering in the 8th to 12th year after planting and flowers may be scarce. 

Plants propagated from stem cuttings can, depending on a variety, start blooming in the 2nd to 7th year after planting and will flower very profusely. During the first 3-4 years wisteria grows slowly and it needs careful nurturing and screening in winter. Afterwards it starts growing vigorously with 1-2 m of annual growth and attains a height of 10 m and more. It has twining stems that twist round the supports and its roots can spread at a distance of over a dozen meters from the plant. During harsh winters it may freeze, but new stems will emerge from the roots. It will grow and flower best in a warm and sunny, sheltered position, in moderately fertile and moderately moist soil.

Pruning can reduce the growth of wisteria and speed up and enhance blooming. During the first 2-3 years the plant should be left to grow freely to allow it to strengthen. Then you should cut it back hard, in a similar fashion to vine, in order to encourage the formation of the flower buds. Flower buds are formed in early autumn so the basic pruning is best done in summer (at the end of July). Cut the majority of the stems above the 4th leaf, leaving untouched only the stems that are needed to shape the plant. In early spring you can touch it up, cutting off all the stems that are too slim, unneeded or dead, and leaving only 2-3 buds on the lateral stems. Cover all pruning cuts with a pruning paste e.g. Santar or Funaben. You can make this paste on your own by adding the fungicide to undiluted emulsion paint, in the dose of 20 g to 1 l. If despite the pruning of the stems, after many years wisteria will not star blooming, it's advisable to cut roots, as this may encourage flowering in the following year. Roots should be cut in spring (March), by digging a spade as deep as it's possible round the plant at a distance of 1,5-2 m from it.

  • Wisteria floribunda - Japanese Wisteria has left-hand stems:
    • 'Honbeni' - pink flowers in long racemes,
    • 'Ludwik Lawin' - violet flowers,
    • 'Multijuga' - violetblue flowers gathered in exceptionally long racemes,
    • 'Shiro-noda' - white flowers in long racemes,
    • 'Violacea Plena' - double purple flowers.
  • Wisteria sinensis - Chinese Wisteria, has right-hand stems and blue flowers:
    • 'Amethyst' - purple blooms in long racemes;
    • 'Blue Sapphire' - blue flowers;
    • 'Prolific' - pleasant smelling blue flowers appear already in the second-third year after planting.
    • 'Texas White' - white flowers,